Conquering the Giant of Iran: Winter Ascent of Damavand

April 2019

Iran is a country of remarkable contrasts, where millennia of history, stunning landscapes, and rich cultural traditions intersect. From the bustling bazaars of Tehran and Isfahan to the serene mountain villages and Caspian coastline, the country offers travelers a wide spectrum of experiences. Visitors notice the cultural norms shaped by Islamic law, with dress codes and public behavior closely monitored in many areas. Yet beneath these restrictions, the Iranian people are warm, hospitable, and eager to share their heritage and landscapes with visitors.

Mount Damavand in winter

Mount Damavand: The Jewel of the Alborz

Dominating northern Iran, Mount Damavand rises to 5,610 meters and holds the title of the highest volcano in Asia. Its snow-capped cone is an iconic symbol in Persian mythology and a source of national pride. The volcano is dormant but not extinct, with sulfur vents near the summit that remind climbers of its immense power.

Damavand is a classic stratovolcano, formed by layers of lava flows, ash, and volcanic debris built up over hundreds of thousands of years. It lies within the Alborz mountain range, which itself was created by the collision between the Arabian Plate and the Eurasian Plate—a different tectonic setting from the Andes, but equally powerful in shaping dramatic landscapes. Damavand’s last known eruptions occurred thousands of years ago, and while it is currently dormant, geothermal activity—including fumaroles and hot springs—indicates that it is not extinct.

Starting point of the trek

Damavand sits within the Alborz mountain range, which stretches along northern Iran, separating the Caspian lowlands from the central plateau. The region’s geology and volcanic activity make it a unique destination for climbers, geologists, and nature enthusiasts. The lower slopes are home to alpine meadows and a surprising variety of plant species, while the upper reaches are dominated by glaciers, snowfields, and barren volcanic rock.

Beyond its geology, Damavand holds a profound place in Persian culture and mythology. It appears in the Shahnameh, Iran’s epic poem, where it is the site where the tyrant Zahhak was imprisoned. For centuries, the mountain has symbolized strength, resistance, and freedom. Even today, it is seen not just as a natural landmark, but as a cultural and spiritual icon deeply woven into Iranian identity.

On the way to the refuge

The mountain’s diverse routes make it accessible to both moderate hikers and experienced mountaineers. Its combination of high-altitude challenge, natural beauty, and cultural significance attracts adventurers from around the world.

Winter Conditions on Damavand

Attempting Damavand during the shoulder season brings additional challenges. Snow, ice, and high winds can make the climb treacherous. On our ascent, frozen ridges forced us to alter the route, digging steps in the snow for safer passage. Steep slopes demanded careful placement of crampons and ice axes, with every step carrying the potential for serious injury. False summits tested mental endurance, as the true peak often appeared just beyond the one in sight.

At the Summit of Asia's highest volcano

Sulfuric vents near the summit added a unique challenge. While beautiful, the gas can irritate the lungs, particularly if the wind direction is unfavorable. Monitoring wind and gas levels is vital for climbers.

Snow Blindness: A Hidden Danger

During the descent, I suffered from snow blindness, caused by prolonged exposure of the eyes to ultraviolet rays reflected off snow and ice. My sunglasses had frozen, leaving my eyes unprotected in the bright sunlight. The corneas were burned, eyelids swelled, and vision became nearly impossible for over thirty hours.

Snowblindness

What is Snow Blindness?

• It occurs when UV rays reflect off snow and ice, damaging the cornea.

• High altitudes increase UV exposure due to thinner air.

• Symptoms include pain, swelling, excessive tearing, and temporary vision loss.

  
  

Prevention Tips:

1. Wear glacier goggles or high-quality UV sunglasses at all times.

2. Keep a backup pair in case primary glasses freeze or break.

3. Avoid removing sunglasses unnecessarily.

4. Use hats or visors to reduce glare.

5. Take breaks in shaded or sheltered areas when possible.

How to Get to Mount Damavand

Mount Damavand is located approximately 70 km northeast of Tehran, making it one of the most accessible high mountains in the region. Most international travelers arrive via Tehran Imam Khomeini International Airport (IKA). From Tehran, climbers typically travel by road to the village of Polour, the main gateway to Damavand. The journey takes around 2–3 hours depending on traffic.

The most popular climbing route is the South Route, which begins near Polour. Climbers usually stay at the Damavand Mountaineering Federation Camp before being transported by 4WD vehicles to Goosfand Sara (3,000 m). From there, a well-established trail leads to Bargah Sevom Refuge (4,200 m), the main high camp used for summit attempts.Alternative routes include the Northeast, North, and West routes, which are generally less crowded and more demanding.

Best Season to Climb Damavand

The climbing season on Damavand is relatively short due to its elevation and harsh weather.

Summer (June – September)

The best time to climb Damavand is from mid-June to early September. During this period:

• Snow coverage is significantly reduced.

• Trails are easier to follow.

• Temperatures are milder.

• Mountain refuges are fully operational.

• Weather windows are generally more stable.

July and August are considered the peak climbing months and attract both local and international mountaineers.

Spring and Autumn

These shoulder seasons offer more solitude but come with increased risks:

• Deeper snow on the upper slopes.

• Strong winds and colder temperatures.

• Greater avalanche potential.

• More demanding route-finding.

Our May ascent fell into this category, which explains the extensive snowfields and winter-like conditions encountered high on the mountain.

Winter (November – April)

A winter ascent of Damavand is a serious mountaineering challenge. Temperatures can plunge far below freezing, storms are frequent, and avalanche conditions can be severe. Only highly experienced winter climbers should consider an ascent during this period.

Final

This experience underscored the importance of preparation, caution, and respect for natural hazards in high-altitude climbing.

• Height (7/10) At 5,609 m, it is slightly lower than Mount Elbrus, but still high enough to cause significant altitude effects. Acclimatization is still important, especially above 5,000 m.

• Technical Difficulty (4/10) No technical climbing required on the normal routes. It is a steep trek with loose volcanic scree, which makes the ascent physically tiring but not technically complex.

• Terrain & Route Complexity (5/10) A well-established route exists, but the upper mountain is dominated by loose volcanic gravel and steep sustained slopes, which increase fatigue and slow progress.

• Weather & Climate (7/10) Harsh alpine conditions with strong winds, freezing temperatures near the summit, and frequent weather changes. Snow and ice persist for much of the year.

• Accessibility & Remoteness (4/10) Fairly accessible from Tehran, with road access to high camps, but the environment itself is still remote and exposed.

Final overall difficulty rating: 5.2 / 10

Mount Damavand is a demanding high-altitude trek, where sustained steepness, loose volcanic terrain, and weather are the main challenges rather than technical climbing or extreme altitude.